The Mobay Kotch is a Hidden Gem

If you read the travel.state.gov page about Jamaica, they will mention a few places you shouldn’t go in Montego Bay: Clark Street, Claver’s Street, Church Street, etc. We stayed at the intersection of Clark and Claver’s.

Here’s why:

 

 

Built in the 1760s, this beautiful building has had many lives. It has been a Church manse, synagogue, a hotel, a masonic lodge, an office space, and a restaurant, to name a few. Today, it is a registered historic heritage site and hostel called Mobay Kotch, which we were lucky to call home for a few nights.

Although it was located in a rough part of town, the walled yard created a quiet refuge to decompress after exploring and the second story balcony was perfect for calming travel jitters.

 

 

Plus, the gorgeous Georgian architecture inspired this kind of annoyingly cute porch photo.

 

 

Montego Bay Has a Curfew (But it’s largely ignored)

There’s a city-wide 8pm curfew and state of emergency called in response to a high number of gang-related homicides in Montego Bay. Getting in and out of the city requires going through military checkpoints, but I can’t say we saw much police or military overall. Mostly, we saw a lot of private security. Poverty, homelessness, and mental illness are highly visible and striking.

Here was the view out of the window after curfew:

Baja Salt Flats

Somewhere along the way back from San Felipe, there is a neat salt flat. We spent a little while here in the pretty landscape, just enjoying the views.

 

Seaside Bathing in Puertecitos Hot Springs

Puertecitos Mexico, Population 41, is located a few hours south of San Felipe and is home to excellent natural hot springs. You’ll need to time it just right, as most of the pools are covered during high tide and gradually emerge and rise in temperature as the sea recedes. This gives a nice layered effect, allowing bathers to move toward or away from the sea until they find the temperature that is just right for them. We had a great time with friends just stacking rocks and lounging in the warm water. If you’re ever there, the only restaurant in town has the best pozole we’ve ever had.

 

Great company.

 

Ominous lighting, standing on the rocky beach near the hot springs as a storm rolls in. No filter. Really.

 

Josh’s rock stacking handiwork. The middle stone was about the length of a human head, for scale.

Valle de los Gigantes (Valley of the Giants)

Valle de los Gigantes (Valley of the Giants) is home to 1,000 year old, absolutely gigantic cacti, and is well worth a visit. It doesn’t appear to see much traffic and on the day we went, we were the only ones in the reserve.

It is an inhospitable but nonetheless beautiful landscape.

 

Lauren is dwarfed by her elder.

 

Close-up. Brutal.

Palapa Camping on the Sea of Cortez

Our friend Ming made us reservations at a palapa campground in San Felipe called Kiki’s. It was a beautiful place to hang out on the beach, explore the nearby rocks and pools, catch a fish, cook Thanksgiving dinner, and gather wild clams for a pasta dinner.

This was our Palapa site. We slept in a tent on the airy deck and cooked our meals in the kitchen below.

 

Ming floats down the Sea of Cortez.

 

My first attempt at acroyoga.

 

Nicole met a local who showed us where to dig up clams for our pasta dinner. Thanks to our friend Lauren for this photo!

 

 

Beautiful sunset on the Sea. Not a bad way to end our day.