Gone Fishin’ … with Cormorants

Cormorants are heavier and more intelligent-seeming than you would expect, with neck feathers that are as soft as high-end cupcake frosting. When they look at you, your first thought might be “bird, bird please don’t peck out my eyeballs.” But your second thought might be that you could see how humans formed a relationship with these magnificent creatures.

Fisherman in Yangshuo have had a long history of fishing with cormorants. They tie a snare around the bird’s necks and send them off in the water. Small fish will pass into the bird’s stomachs but larger fish get caught by the snare. As the birds return to the boat, the fisherman force the birds to regurgitate the larger fish into fishing baskets to collect their haul. It seems like it would hurt, with all the spikey fish spines, but the birds appear to take it in stride and keep returning to their master.

Cormorant fishing used to be a successful industry in China, Japan, and Korea, but now that way of life is dying and it is mostly a show that is done for tourists. In order to arrange ours, we were told to follow a woman who didn’t speak any English through a series of dark alleys, down to the river in the pitch dark of night, where we waited until the fisherman appeared. At the end of the show, we were able to hold the birds and view them up close. Animal rights concerns aside, it was an experience we feel lucky to have had.

I know the video is dark, but try to spot the cormorants diving for fish in the lighted water.

How to pack for any adventure in under an hour and never forget anything

We are notorious last-minute packers. Fortunately, I made up a system for that, and it works brilliantly. (I’m not even humble bragging, I know.) I never worry about whether or not I have everything and always have some idea of what our standard load out will be for every trip. The key to doing this simply is having a bomber packing list (Get our master packing list on google docs here).

Meet my packing list:

The packing list has a variety of categories across the top: All Outdoor, Climbing, Backpacking, Travel, Photography, etc. And under that category heading, I’ve created a list of things we usually bring that are associated with that type of travel.

When I want to pack for a new trip, let’s say next month’s adventure to London, I make a new tab on the google doc and copy and paste the relevant columns into the tab I have created. For London, I chose All Outdoor, First Aid Kit, Toiletries, Travel, Photography, Documents, Navigation, and Clothing System.

I then delete out everything I don’t think we need and then condense all of the columns.

As we pack, we usually put everything on the bed first, (and take a photo or two for you lovely folks), and as things are loaded into the backpacks, I turn each item green. I highlight things in yellow that we need to remember the day of the trip, or that I’m unable to pack right away.

The morning of, I check the list. When everything on your list is green, It’s time to get in the car and go!

Using this system, we almost never forget the things we intend to bring and can usually pack for any adventure in under an hour, which is necessary when you travel as much as we do. You can see our packing list and save your own version here.

 

Eating in a country where you don’t speak the language

Eating in a country where you can’t read the menu or speak the language is fantastic. We’ve become comfortable with finding the best smelling thing, pointing at it, and saying “zhe ge” or “na ge” (this or that), and finishing the transaction with smiles, nodding, and gestures. Unfortunately, this means I can’t tell you what I’m eating.

This one is a glutinous dough, cooked on a griddle, maybe with cheese, onion, garlic, and chili, eaten on a stick.

We should really eat more things on sticks in the US.

Gratitude: The antidote for tough travel days

Today was tough. Shenzhen is louder, more confusing, and more difficult to navigate than Hong Kong, and my feet hurt as badly as I can ever remember them hurting, ever.

But I believe in finding things to be grateful for, always. So, here goes:

1. I am grateful that we are in a place that is more different than anywhere I can ever remember being, and that we can enjoy this amazing privilege of traveling and visiting Asia for the first time.

2. I am grateful that this hotel room is the same price as the one in HK but 6-7 times larger, and the nicest place I’ve ever paid for with my own money.

3. I’m grateful for translation apps, which helped us pay for our room and identify food today, the steripen, which allows us to drink clean water, and the VPN, which is giving me free range access to the internet.

4. I am grateful for fried pork (OMG GOOD), Hawthorne fruit gummies, “bean skin”? (Like an omelette with rice, mushroom, meat and beans?), and real passion fruit juice. I am grateful that the food here is fantastic, and I’m grateful that so much of it is not fish.

5. I’m grateful for my adventure partner, who makes even the long, hard travel days a lot funner.

On Vulnerability in China

On every bus and train stop, the announcements or signs remind you to “take care of the old and children”. I really like that.

Even the way that bus drivers drive very carefully when next to mopeds and scooters demonstrates how much this culture values human life and takes care of the vulnerable.

Sometimes, the vulnerable are silly white people who can’t read any signs and need help figuring out where to get hot water or queue for the bus and, in these situations, we’re taken care of, too.

I feel as safe here as I’ve felt anywhere.

(Photo: XingPing water wheel on the Li River, Guangxi Province.)

Outmaneuvering Typhoon Manghut & Travelling on the Fly

Journal entry from 9/8/18:

Typhoon Mangkhut shut down the train between Yangshuo and the coast and cut off the path to our flight out of HK. This forced us to rebook and extend our trip by 6 days.

The weather isn’t great, but we’re safe, and we’re going to make the best of this opportunity by traveling a bit further inland before heading home.

I’m happy to report that we’re really starting to figure out this bus-train-metro thing and it’s actually not so difficult once you get the hang of it. Here’s Josh, riding the bus to the Yangshuo metro station while booking two bullet trains to Guilin and Changsha. It’s great to be able to do these things on the fly and keep a flexible schedule so that we can adapt to the weather and travel conditions as we go.

 

Josh orders our connecting tickets on his phone. He became our travel ticket master during this trip.
Josh picks up the tickets he purchased by showing the reservation on his phone to the teller. It’s really not so complicated once you get used to the fact that you can’t speak the same language and you don’t try to rely on it.

 

Bastimentos: Care-free and Car-free

Bastimentos is magical. It’s a tiny Panamanian island in the Caribbean that can only be reached by boat and is 100% car free. People get around the island entirely on foot, via steep, narrow paths.

Bastimentos, viewed from the water.

My introduction to the region was admittedly jarring. A man tried to get friendly with me on the boat taxi, offered to carry my bag, and ignored when I tried to say no. I should have been more firm… I’ve learned to be a bolder traveler since then. He carried my bag with me desperately trailing in tow all the way to his hostel, where he then tried to pressure me into buying a room. It was nice enough, on a pier above the water, but empty. And I was thoroughly creeped out, as you likely can imagine, I grabbed my bag and gave a firmer NO and walked on to where I could locate more people. I landed at Hostal Bastimentos and was not disappointed.

Hostal Bastimentos. Highly recommend.

The main hostel on the island is fantastic. Beautiful. Gorgeous. Populated by tanned, fascinating, happy travelers who have spent varying times around Central America. And crawling with geckos. I was a happy girl.

The view from the porch.

The next day, a group from the hostel put together a number of custom local tours and I jumped in. We hiked to the beach, ate exotic tropical fruits, spelunked in a bat cave, viewed sloths on an island, boated through the mangroves, saw red poison dart frogs and snorkeled on a tropical reef. I’m very sorry to say I didn’t get photos of most of these adventures. What I have, I’ll share below.

Walking down paths on the interior of the island.
Children on the island collected almonds from the trees. They grew wild, everywhere.
Wizard beach. Worth the hike.
It wouldn’t be a vacation if I didn’t temporarily frighten some local wildlife.
We passed a dugout canoe in our motor boat on the way to the bat cave just before passing sloths!
There’s a sloth in there! I wish I had a better photo for you because these creatures are magnificent.
We headed over to unpopulated cays for some beach and snorkeling time.

I don’t like fish, but this was the tastiest one I’ve ever eaten. It was unfortunately illegally poached in a marine reserve… then it was cleaned (the innards were fed to a shark), and cooked over a fire on the beach. It was a magical, mixed experience.
Red poison dart frogs. This time, I didn’t touch them and then rub my eyes and spend days in pain (like I did that one time in the Amazon). Lessons learned the hard way.
Gorgeous creatures.
We were thirsty, so Titi, ever resourceful, opened us up a coconut.

Boquete, land of forests, quetzals and waterfalls

9 hours and 4 busses later, I found a region of the country in the mountains near Costa Rica where I feel much more at home. I hear frogs, insects, and the occasional bird… and this is the mural at my hostel for tonight. (And I made friends with a climber!) (Who has never heard of Joshua Tree).

I am in love with the forest, but the highlight of this place is the locals. Gaboo, who took me hiking and swimming in a nearby waterfall. Ruben, who traded me climbing guide services for a pair of Evolv’s for his little boy. And Mauricio, who invited me into his home for a home cooked meal. I am overwhelmed by how generous and kind everyone has been to a solo traveler and have felt safe my entire time in this town.

Mural at the hostel. I knew after I saw this I’d found the right place.
Paradise is a wooded lawn with hammocks.
It felt amazing to be back in the cloud forest after so many years.
I did The Touristy Thing. I hired a horse and guide for an afternoon to explore the countryside.
Horseback selfie, naturally.
The volcanic rock wall near town was fascinating!
Just hanging out. I promise I looked really hardcore when I was actually climbing.
Next up: Waterfall hike. I heard tons of beautiful quetzals but was not fortunate enough to see one.

When in doubt, take your pants off and tiptoe into the freezing waterfall.