Give us this day our daily bread

I’d like to title this one:

“Give us this day our daily bread… by flagging down a roaming salesperson from your balcony and dropping a bag with money in it on a rope down to the ground level so it can be filled and you can pull it back up to your floor”

Yes, this is how many Havanans buy bread and other goods every single day from as high as 7 stories up. There’s never a moment without someone singing “Panaderoooooo!” (Translation: baker/breadseller) or the name of whatever they’re selling. You can also half lower your basket and tie it off and wait for the appropriate seller to come around…. so it’s kind of like fishing.

The vertical, low-tech lifestyle also means the way you ring someone’s home is by buzzing the whole building, running across the street so they can see you from their balcony, yelling up, and having them throw you down a key. Our host preferred to stick it in a rubber duck.  The entire building pops their head out to see if the guest is theirs, every single time, and no one seems to mind.

 

We were so fortunate to have our awesome Airbnb host Ana to explain all of this to us, so we could try fishing for bread ourselves! (Ana was invaluable to us as she helped us navigate and adjust to the city. For more info in using Airbnb to live with a local in another country and a $40 off coupon on your first stay, click here.)

 

Trying my hand at fishing.

Museo de la Revolución (Museum of the Revolution)

The Museum of the Revolution: As Americans, we didn’t feel much love here. You can imagine why.

What follows are snippets of the most interesting things we saw.

 

This building used to be the Presidential Palace. What do you do when you overthrow the government to form an egalitarian society, and find yourself with a giant palace? Why you make it into a museum, of course!

 

 

 

One of the most important battles of the revolution actually took place inside this palace and left bullet holes as an eerie reminder.

 

This place was, indeed, palatial. It was far and away the most lavish place we saw in Cuba.

 

Corner of the Cretins. The plaques read as follows. “Ronald Regan: Thank you cretin for helped us TO STRENGTHEN THE REVOLUTION. George Bush Sr: Thank you cretin for helped us TO CONSOLIDATE THE REVOLUTION.  W Bush. Thank you cretin for helped us TO MAKE SOCIALISM IRREVOCABLE.”

 

This third grader’s drawing won an honorable mention in a contest to represent the spirit of the Museum of the Revolution for an anniversary event. It was shocking to me at first, because we wouldn’t usually reward this kind of thing in the US. But taken in the context of the larger rhetoric… perhaps it’s not so surprising.

 

The tank reads “26 of June. Constructed by the workers of C. Andreita”

 

A recurring motif from our trip was that if Cubans are lacking something, they *will* figure out a way to make it. Including armored vehicles. Out of tractors.

 

The gift shop has a selection of books, all are used, and over half are about the United States taking military action against Latin America.

 

Those subtitles do not mean the same thing. Read carefully…

 

“Between 1971 and 1989, CIA agents introduce in Cuba the pigs fever virus. More than one million animals died and so the supplies of pig meat for the population decreased.”

 

“Body of one of the members of the commando that took over the Civil Hospital. He was murdered on the 26th”

 

This giant barrel was put out on the street to collect voluntary donations for agrarian reform. Imagine what they could have done with Kickstarter.

Crespo Street Mid-Morning

Thoughts while chowing down on some peso pizza (5 cents USD) for breakfast and standing on this corner:

Everyone says Cuba is a time capsule. But is it really true? If we were here in 1950, these buildings would be new. The cars would be new. Travel and commerce would be open to more countries, the rich would be richer and own almost all of the land, and the poor would likely be poorer and own nothing.

But right now, most everything you see in this picture is kind of jankey. I guarantee that at least one part of that car is held together by tape, string, or glue. The buildings have seen better days, but almost every family owns their home. So is it a time capsule? We’re not so sure. But it’s certainly different than anything else we’ve ever experienced.

 

Welcome to Havana

We arrived in Cuba around 10pm at night, exhausted from a long day of flying, and walked like zombies up the 7 stories of our Airbnb. We didn’t look around at all and fell asleep as soon as our heads hit the pillows.

Upon waking, this was our first view of Havana on our first morning in Cuba:

My first impression was just how vertical it all was. People on top of people on top of people, hanging out on porches, balconies, and roofs. We’d never been anywhere quite like it.

Staying Warm

When we were there, temperatures hit record lows. Fortunately our Airbnb was less than a block away from an amazing hot chocolate and churro place.

Photo Post: Kindergarten Street Art